Hamsters are nocturnal, so they spend most of the day asleep. They need a large cage and should be kept away from other animals in a quiet place. They can be quite noisy, so the bedroom isn’t the best place for them to live. Most hamsters are sociable and can be kept in same sex pairs or groups. However female Chinese hamsters are better off alone, as are the Syrian hamster.
Hamsters are very active creatures and need plenty of space; cages such as this one from Pico is perfect, as it has plenty of accessories in it already to keep your hamster entertained. Or if you prefer to put your own cage together there is this one from Rotastck which you can buy plenty of extras for to create your perfect hamster home.
The floor of the cage should be covered with a thick layer of wood flakes for your hamster to burrow and dig in. sawdust is not suitable as it can make your hamster ill. There needs to be a sheltered place for your hamster to sleep in that is dark inside. The cage should be placed away from direct sunlight and radiators.
Hamsters can run the equivalent of four to eight miles in an evening so a wheel for them to run in is essential, make sure that your wheel is solid rather than rungs so your hamster doesn’t get their feet trapped. Shelters and tubes are a good idea as hamster like to hoard their food. Wooden gnawing toys are a good idea to help keep your hamsters teeth short.
When handling your hamster you should never wake them up, they may react by biting you. Be gentle when holding your hamster and regular handling will build their confidence and relationship with you.
The cage should be cleaned out and disinfected once a week. Cleaning can be a stressful time for your hamster as they use their scent to make their territory, so place a small amount of used but dry bedding back into the cage to keep your hamster happy.
Your hamster will need a good quality hamster mix or nuggets such as this one from Tiny Friends Farm. If you wish to change your hamsters’ food, introduce new food slowly over a period of around 10 days, phasing out the old food completely. A pellet food may prevent selective feeding. Small quantities of fruit and vegetables such as apples and carrots can be supplemented into your hamster’s diet, however too much fruit can be bad due to the high sugar content.
Ceramic food bowls are the best to use as they are hard to tip over, gnaw proof and easy to clean. Fresh water should always be provided daily in a suitable bottle.
Cleaning your fish tank need not be a chore, with a little effort and the right fish tank cleaning supplies it is possible to have your aquarium sparkling once again. Before cleaning your tank it can be worth assessing how much of the water you are planning on changing and also recognise that the bacteria on some of your aquarium items may in fact be beneficial to the habitat, subsequently being selective about what you clean can be worthwhile.
There are eight easy steps to cleaning your tank:
Cleaning a fish tank does not have to be challenging, with the right aquarium cleaning supplies the task can be made much easier, leaving you the time to enjoy your fish in their shiny, clean habitat.
In ancient Chinese tradition water is said to be good for bringing money and wealth, which is why it’s considered lucky to have offices alongside a river or harbour. Fish are also considered important because they provide a living energy that can revitalise a building.
And it’s not just Eastern philosophies which believe that fish have healing properties – several Western medical studies have attached health and stress management benefits to watching or owning aquarium fish, such as lowering blood pressure, reducing stress and calming hyperactive children.
I don’t know how accurate these theories are, but it’s certainly true that your surroundings impact on how you feel and most people we meet in the shops say that watching fish helps them relax. I think this is why the new Fluval Edge Aquarium is so popular– the frameless design adds to the overall aesthetic and looks stunning in a living room.
The association with stress relief also makes an aquarium an obvious choice for a busy office, and we’re often asked which types of fish and tanks are best suited to a work environment. Tropical fish are the best choice because of their stunning colours and relatively small size, and the Fluval or Juwel aquariums are a practical and stylish option. Consider a high quality filter to keep the tank clean and aerated, as well as an automated feeder such as the Juwel Automatic for weekends and holidays. It’s also important to ensure the tank is located away from ringing phones and very bright lights.
So whether you’re trying to de-stress at home or work, fish are a great investment for your wellbeing and may even bring you luck!
To continue our blog series on keeping a pet rabbit, the subject of what to feed your bunny needs to be highlighted. A rabbit’s diet should be diverse; not only to ensure that your bunny receives all of their required nutrients, but also to ensure that they are interested in their food in the variety of foods on offer.
Grass hay should form the largest constituent of your rabbit’s diet and should be provided to them in abundance. Hay provides rabbits with plenty of fibre that can help to keep their gut in order and their intestines working efficiently, preventing digestive problems in the long term. Hay can be supplemented by fresh grass as well by letting your rabbit out into the garden to enjoy the greenery.
Pellets can also form an important part in the rabbit’s diet. It is important to ensure that pellets are purchased regularly and kept fresh as stale pellets are not wholly palatable to bunnies. Pellets should be high in fibre and low in protein, and should not be the largest constituent of your rabbit’s diet as too much protein can lead to obesity and other health issues.
We have an image of Bugs Bunny enjoying the odd carrot and your real life rabbit is no different. Carrots however shouldn’t be the only fresh vegetables your bunny receives; broccoli, spinach and dark leafed lettuces are great, as are fresh herbs such as basil, mint and dill, the more fragrant the better. Bear in mind that your rabbit shouldn’t be fed food that is going off in the fridge, it is important to feed them fresh vegetables and also to wash everything first. Balancing your rabbit’s vegetable intake is important and even fruits can be used as occasional treats.
Today there are a wide variety of complete food mixtures available on the market that help to ensure that rabbits receive a nutritionally balanced meal containing fibre and also components that help keep dental health at a premium.
A rabbit’s nutritional requirements will change over time with specific needs as a young, adult or older bunny. For instance a younger rabbit requires more protein to grow whereas an older rabbit needs higher fibre to maintain body weight and a healthy gastrointestinal system.
Experimenting with your rabbit’s diet will help you to understand what types of foods they prefer and which will make them most happy by remembering that you need to balance your bunny’s food, taking care not to treat too often you should give your rabbit the best chance of being healthy. Fortunately here at Seapets we have a full range of rabbit foods for you to give your bunny buddy.
Once you have chosen the breed of rabbit you think will be most suitable for you and your family it is important to find somewhere for the rabbit to spend its time. There are hundreds of rabbit cages and hutches available on the market making choosing a process of careful consideration.
It will also be important to decide whether your rabbit will be an indoor or outdoor animal as this is likely to determine the type of cage or hutch that will be appropriate. It is worth remembering that even indoor rabbits will need somewhere peaceful so that they can rest and relax. Many rabbit owners choose to have an outdoor hutch and an indoor home; the outdoor cage for when the rabbit is kept in the garden and a smaller home for bringing the rabbit indoors at night or if the weather is bad.
When choosing rabbit hutches there are a number of key considerations: The first concern is to ensure that any hutch you may buy is big enough for your rabbit; it should also have efficient ventilation and cooling. It is also important to note that as it will be exposed to the elements it is frequently unwise to opt for the cheapest hutch, this can be counterproductive requiring it to be replaced much sooner than a more high quality model.
Most hutches will have an exposed area that has mesh, for ventilation and for the rabbit to see the world and an enclosed space filled with plenty of fresh bedding so that it has somewhere warm and comfortable should the weather turn nasty. They should also have an asphalt roof to ensure that when the rain lashes down; your rabbit will be dry and cosy.
Security should also be a concern as in the wild the rabbit is the prey of many animals and even in urban areas foxes are a problem for rabbits. Once again sturdiness is an important feature; many choose to have a hutch that is raised off the ground to provide protection.
Cages & Indoor Rabbit Homes
Cages are typically used inside and as with hutches it is important to ensure that it is large enough to house the rabbit. Most agree that a minimum size of around four times that of the rabbit is acceptable although for comfort larger homes can be a good option. Whilst wire floors make for easier cleaning it should be noted that ensuring this floor is comfortable for the rabbit is essential; in more recent years, plastic rabbit homes have become a far more popular option for reasons of comfort and convenience.
It is important to fill the cage with enough bedding so that your rabbit has a comfortable place to sleep. You may choose to use old pieces of carpet or even fleece blanket if you hold comfort as an imperative, although in most instances hay or wooden shavings make excellent bedding both indoors and out.
Many rabbit owners chose to use a pen when they have their rabbit outside. This is a sensible course of action particularly if your rabbit is a bit of an escape artist and your garden isn’t particularly well rabbit-proofed. Cages are a good idea although it should be remembered that in hot weather, shade should be provided for the rabbit and at all times fresh water should be available.
At Seapets we are able to offer a wide range of outdoor rabbit hutches and indoor rabbit homes as well as bedding and a host of accessories so that you can ensure your rabbit is comfortable, relaxed and enjoying its life.
Hopefully you have read our previous post on the benefits of owning your very own pet rabbit, in it we explored rabbit ownership and how through love and care it is possible that your rabbit will be an important member of the family.
Before heading out to buy your rabbit it is important to decide whether your pet will be an indoor or outdoor animal. If you are considering keeping your rabbit outside then it is important to realise that you will still need to include them in family life, socialising with them daily, if you are planning on keeping a house rabbit then it is equally important to ‘rabbit proof’ the house so that it cannot chew through any electrical wiring for instance.
Within the UK the three most popular rabbit breeds are the Dutch, Draw Lop and Netherland Dwarf, although that is not to say you have to choose one of these, there are over one hundred rabbit breeds available today, each with very different characteristics.
Top 3 Rabbit Breeds:
The Dutch is a great pet rabbit breed that is aesthetically pleasing because of its white upper body and face, normally the rear and head are both black or brown making for a beautiful contrast. The Dutch as a breed is normally fairly small and physically compact, and they are fairly good tempered animals. The Dutch rabbit is also a fan of exploring and is often energetic and sociable, so it is necessary to give them plenty of space to play and to also spend time with them.
The Netherland Dwarf
Another small breed, the Netherland Dwarf is much smaller than the Dutch. With short ears, bright eyes and bred in a number of different colours they are certainly appealing. The Netherland Dwarf is not always a good tempered animal however and as such may not be suitable pets for small children, asking about the temperament of the parents is advisable.
The Dwarf Lop
Another dwarf variety of rabbit, the Dwarf Lop is characterised by it cute floppy ears, making it one of the most popular rabbits today. The Dwarf Lop comes in a large number of colours from black to white and have soft, dense fur – ideal for stroking. Dwarf Lops are typically very well natured and make brilliant first rabbits for both adults and children.
Choosing a rabbit is all about finding one that will suit your lifestyle and family. These three are certainly popular but with other breeds such as the Harlequin, English Lop, Polish and the massive Flemish Giant there is certainly plenty of breeds to choose from. As always, if you are considering buying a rabbit why not come into Seapets and ask one of our friendly team for advice on guidance on which breed could be best for you.
Rabbits are a great pet and can be a welcome addition to any family. As highly social animals they revel in the company of family members and if possible, like to live in pairs. Rabbits do however require a great deal of care and subsequently the decision of whether to buy a rabbit should only be taken after some serious consideration.
Rabbits are expected to live for between five and fifteen years, dependent upon the particular breed. Subsequently as a potential owner it is important to look at your own life and assess whether you will be able to devote enough time to care and love a rabbit for the entirety of its life.
The benefits of keeping rabbits are that they are extremely social and respond well to being handled gently and regularly, forming a strong bond with their owners. Rabbits can even be litter trained and can be taught some tricks and special behaviour; making them a good option as both indoor and outdoor pets.
As an owner it is important to realise that you will have to devote daily time to play with your rabbit if you are going to form a social bond, you will also have to be prepared to feed them with good quality vegetables as well as rabbit pellets. It is also worth noting that rabbits are not always a good option if you have young, very active children that may handle the rabbit too roughly. Rabbit urine can also have a very strong smell so changing the material in their hutch or their litter tray on a regular basis is essential.
In terms of veterinary activities rabbits should be neutered or spayed early in their life to prevent them breeding; vaccinations may also be required if you want your rabbit to avoid certain viruses.
As mentioned throughout this post, rabbits make excellent pets and as long as they are handled gently, take great pleasure in being part of the family. Either indoors or out, rabbits offer fun and entertainment, as long as you can show them the love and care they require.
Our dogs bring us massive amounts of joy every day which is why it is so important to ensure that they have a healthy diet. But with so many dog foods out there, how do you know which are the best?
As with humans there is no one food that is the best option for all dogs. Ultimately as a dog owner it is important to understand what type of food is going to be most suitable; you may even have to try a number of different types and brands before finding a dog food that keeps your pooch healthy and happy.
When choosing dog food for your pet it is important to consider the age of your dog and more widely its stage of life. For instance, puppy food typically has much larger amounts of proteins, vitamins, calories and minerals to aid growth and development. Conversely, an adult dog does not require the same nutritional qualities in its food; if they are fed puppy food they can become overweight. Similarly, older dogs may require more easily digestible food.
Basically there are three main varieties of dog food, wet, dry and semi-moist. There is much debate about which is the best option for dogs with many swaying towards dry food. However, as a pet owner it is important to remember that the type of food is heavily dependent upon the dog, providing a variety should also be a consideration.
If you are thinking of switching your dog food then it is advisable to do this slowly, gradually mixing a larger percentage of the new food with the old food over a period of two weeks. By doing this you should reduce the risks of any digestion problems arising from a sudden change in diet.
Hopefully the preceding tips should help you to choose the right food for your pooch.
Reptiles are a popular gift idea because they’re considered low maintenance and quirky. However, they live a relatively long time and require specialist knowledge to care for them so it’s important to make sure you do your research and invest in the right products.
If you are sure that the pet will be wanted, loved and well looked after, you will need to know which reptile is the most appropriate. Each species has different requirements, for example amphibians are less expensive to maintain than lizards, but they have sensitive skin and can’t be handled often, and some snakes will need to be fed defrosted rodents, which not everyone will want to do. Generally leopard geckos, corn snakes and bearded dragons are considered to be excellent for beginners: leopard geckos have calm temperaments, and are a manageable size; corn snakes are very placid and easy to handle; and bearded dragons are robust and seem to positively enjoy the company of people.
Having chosen a suitable species, the right housing and equipment will be needed. You should consider heating, lighting, hiding places and food. We have a large selection of variably sized terrariums and vivariums including Exo Terra, Komodo and Zoomed, as well as other reptile homes. We also stock excellent starter kits which include everything you need for an easy set up: the Exo Terra range has set up kits for leopard geckos, Crested Gecko and bearded dragons, and the Komodo range includes starter kits for spider, scorpion, tortoise and ball python, amongst others.
The Green Anole is the most commonly kept of all the Anolis species. It is indigenous to South America. It is an agile climber and an acute hunter of spiders, grasshoppers and other insects. They are very friendly lizards that enjoy being hand fed, however they do have some specialised care requirements. Males grow up to 8 inches while females seldom exceed 6 inches. While in captivity Green Anole live to around 6 years old. They tolerate being handled, but prefer to perch on a hand or shoulder than being tightly gripped. They are quite fragile and their tails can break easily. It is best to leave a new Anole for a few weeks to become accustomed to their surroundings before being handled.
Green Anole prefer verticle Terrariums due to their climbing nature, a well ventilated one is recommended such as this one from Zoo Med. Vertically orientated vegetate cover is essential, acrylic vines and plastic plants are perfect. Anoles will hide out in tangled vegetation rather than in ground level hinds or caves. Bark substrate such as this from Zoo Med mixed with decaying leaf-litter is the best substrate for Anoles rather than wood shavings or sand.
Green Anoles are sun worshipers and 8 hours of full spectrum UV light is recommended. General temperatures should be around 25-30 oC dipping to 15-20 oC at night, with basking spots of 35 oC. They require shady retreats to thermos regulate. Heat lamps work best as a heating source rather than under tank heaters.
They eat small invertebrates such as crickets, meal worms and roaches. Avoid super worms and king worms. Typically Green Anole lap water from leaves after the rain or the early morning dew. However some pets may drink standing water from a shallow dish, but they do prefer to drink water misted onto leaves. However if you do opt for a shallow water dish place a stick or vine in the water so your Anole can get out easily as they cannot escape from a deep dish and may drown.
There are around 35 species of Iguana, the most common is the Green Iguana which can grow between 5 and 7 feet (1.5 to 2 meters) long from nose to tail. Iguanas are a very common reptile to keep as a pet, however they are also the most commonly seen by vets for illness due to lack of proper care. They have relatively strict feeding and housing requirements. Before getting an Iguana as a pet it is important to do your research.
Iguanas become very large as they mature, so don’t get drawn in by the very cute baby you see in the store! They can become less easy to tame as they mature and can become aggressive. They have razor-sharp teeth and claws. That being said, with careful and committed owners, proper care and handling iguana make great pets. The Iguana originate from central and south America, they are herbivorous and eat jungle leaves, fruits and flowers in the wild. They will usually seek temperatures of above 30 oC. Iguanas are not social creatures; putting two together may end up in serious injury or even death.
A good starting size for a young Iguana is this one from vivexotic, or this one from Zoo Med. The best substrate is artificial grass, newspaper or even indoor-outdoors carpet as it is easy to clean. Avoid gravel, soil and sand as it could be eaten and cause potentially fatal intestinal impact. There needs to be plenty of hiding spaces for your Iguana to feel secure. Humidity needs to be maintained by misting the area at least once a day or providing a humidifier such as this one from Repti-fogger. Fresh water needs to be provided and many Iguanas appreciate a daily soak in the bath or sink.
Like all reptiles, Iguanas need heat. Under cage heating pads are the best way forwards, and overhead basking spots are essential. Temperatures should be around 35 – 40 oC and available for 10-14 hours per day. The Terrarium also needs UV lighting for vitamin D.
Large adult Iguanas may only need to be fed 2-3 times a week while juveniles should be fed daily. Iguana food is available but should only make up 70% of the diet, supplemented with plants, half of which should be dark leafy greens such as kale, dandelion greens, Lettice and carrot tops. At least 3 types of greens should be given. The rest of the plant material can be made up of items such as: green beans, broccoli, squash, tomatoes and fruits such as: melon, mango, berries and bananas. In general the more varied the diet the better.
The bearded dragon is the common term used to refer to the Pogona genus of lizards. They call the arid woodland of Australia home and can be often found in trees and bushes. The most popular species kept as pets are pogona vitticeps, the Central Bearded Dragon. They are simple to look after, easy to handle and have plenty of character. Bearded Dragons are diurnal, meaning that they are active during the day. They can live for up to 10 years and can grow up to 60cm (including their tails), males tend to be larger than females.
Choosing a Bearded Dragon
When looking for a breaded dragon there are numerous pointers you should look out for. The first to understand is that you want to find a bearded dragon that is full of life and healthy. Sores, burns or parasitic marks can be signs of poor health, as can build up around the eyes and other orifices. Tails and toes may be removed but as long as there is no infection, this is a fairly common occurrence. Dragons should be a minimum of 6 weeks old. They are happy to be kept on their own. Mature males kept together will fight whereas females may live peacefully together. a male kept with one or more female will form a natural social group, although breeding is inevitable. Dragons “head bob’ to each other as a form of communication, along with waving one of their front legs.
Giving your Dragon a Home
Although a smaller tank will be suitable for adolescent dragons, a terrarium of suitable size should be purchased to allow your dragon to grow. As they are from the hot dry desert of central Australia it is also important to ensure that your dragon has enough heat and light, ensuring that the light is directly shone into the tank so that sufficient UV rays are provided. They need a basking spot lamp such as this one from Exo Terra, this should be kept at one end of the enclosure and the temperature should be around 35 oC and at the cooler end temperature should be around 20-25 oC. at night temperature should not drop bellow 15 oC. They also need the right levels of Ultra Violet (UV) light, otherwise they will not absorb enough calcium which will form deformities. Lights should be controlled by a timer and be kept on for 10-12 hours a day.
The choice of substrate is debatable, there are arguments for and against the use of sand (with many claiming that sand can cause impaction, intestinal problems) and others claiming reptile carpet is a better option. As an owner it is about finding a substrate that you and your dragon can be happy with.
Feeding you Dragon
Bearded Dragons are omnivores and as such you need to provide them with both plants and animals to eat. As your dragon grows it is important to recognise that younger animals require a different diet from adults. Youngsters need a higher percentage of protein than adults; they also require high levels of calcium. To get this protein crickets, silkworms and hornworms are all fairly suitable although removing uneaten prey food is always a good idea. Plants which are high in calcium are a good choice and could include fruits such as mangos or figs and other greens such as dandelion greens and cactus leaves. Lettuce should be avoided and as a rule rhubarb and avocado are also worth skipping. Be careful of pesticides and always wash any foodstuffs you are feeding your dragon. You can also purchase Bearded Dragon food It is also important to ensure that your dragon has enough water, making sure that it is fresh each day and the receptacle is disinfected at least once a week.
Before and after you handle your reptile or are entering their tank it is vital that you wash your hands thoroughly, reptiles are highly susceptible to infections and this can also reduce the chances of you contracting salmonella (a rare occurrence). It is also important to disinfect the tank regularly as well as all of the other surfaces to prevent the build up of bacteria. Finally, you should have a qualified vet close by to ensure that if there are problems, you can find the expertise needed to treat your pet easily.
Your bearded dragon will provide years of pleasure is treated correctly; in order to make the life of your dragon enjoyable however you will have to dedicate considerable time, energy and money. With enough dedication and commitment it is possible to have long living reptile pets that are healthy and full of life.
Skinks come in many varieties and types, differing in size and colour dramatically. Arguably the most popular type of skink is the eastern or common blue tongued skink which can grow to around 12-20 (30-50cm) inches and can live for a whopping 10-20 years.
Skinks are characterised by the small legs and almost snake like appearance. In the wild they often live on the forest floor and because of their short legs, aren’t as quick as other lizards, relatively speaking. Fortunately they are one of the more laid back and docile types of lizard, and can subsequently be handled, allowing owners to build a significant bond with their pet.
1. Housing and Habitat
As skinks can grow to be quite large it is important to ensure they are provided with adequate housing and space. Normally an adult skin will require an enclosure measuring around 4 by 2 foot, such as this one from Vivexotic, although this should be viewed as a minimum, height is less of an issue due to the skink’s physique. Within their enclosure it can be advisable to provide you skink with plenty of room to hide such as logs and also the opportunity to burrow.
2. Heating and Light
Temperatures of between 24-29°C (75-85°F) are ideal and should be provided by a mixture of under tank heating, such as a heat pad and also a basking light. Naturally measuring the temperature around the tank is needed to ensure you are providing the right range of temperatures. As well as the basking light a UV light should also be provided and left on for around 10-12 hours per day, aim to keep the humidity between 25%-50% and it can be good to provide them with a moist area for shedding.
As skinks like to burrow from time to time then a loose substrate is a good option. Sand is not suitable although aspen wood shavings, bark or hemp can be used as they are loose and also absorbent. Care should be taken to ensure your skink is not eating the wood substrate as this can be detrimental to their health.
Skinks are omnivores and as such should have a varied diet filled with many nutritious foods which ensure they are receiving sufficient vitamins and minerals, it may even be worth bolstering the diet with supplements for this purpose. Many keepers recommend a ratio of around one third meat to two-thirds vegetables in the diet. Meats such as diced chicken or beef are good, although seafood is not suitable. The usual live foods such as crickets, mealworms and silkworms can be used but due to their low nutritional content are more of an activity for the skink rather than part of their diet. In terms of fruit and vegetables spring greens, dandelion leaves, mangoes and squashes are good, citrus fruits, spinach, mushrooms and lettuce should be avoided.
As with many lizards it can be prudent to provide a water dish for drinking but also bathing. Skinks enjoy bathing and this can be a beneficial addition to the enclosure. However water dishes require frequent cleaning to prevent the build up of harmful bacteria as skinks have been known to defecate in water.
Skinks’ nails will normally grow quite quickly and will need to be cut from time to time. Calcium deficiency can cause MBD or Metabolic Bone Disease although this can be avoided with effective supplementation and diet.
Skinks are highly rewarding pets if you are willing to devote time to them. They live for a considerable amount of time so can be considered a true investment of effort. As long as you understand the adult size of your pet and also the length of its life you should be well prepared to build a bond with your skink for the years to come.
Leopard Geckos are very easy to look after making them the perfect reptile for anyone new to reptile acre. They are incredible docile creatures and are known for their beautiful mottles skin. Leopard geckos can like for 20 years or more and don’t need as much space as other lizards. They mainly live on the ground, although they can climb their abilities are limited. They are nocturnal and become most active when the vivarium lights are turned off in the evenings.
Leopard geckos originally come from hot dry areas of India and like to have lots of hiding places to rest when the lights are on. Heat is very important to have in the vivarium and can be provided by a heat rock or heat mat. A heat mat should cover less than 50% of the floor area so your gecko can choose where it feels most comfortable. Some areas of the vivarium should have a temperature of 30oC with cooler areas dropping to 20oC at night.
They can grow between 20 and 25cm, so they do not need vast amounts of space a vivarium like this one is perfect. Leopard Geckos are happy living on their own. Adult males will fight when placed together, so if you are thinking about more than one then females are happy living together with or without a single male.
Once a leopard gecko gets to know its owner they don’t mind being handled. They rarely bit or scratch, but will struggle when they are frightened. Hold your but around the shoulders gently but firmly, when they are lifted your other hand should be supporting their body.
Leopard gecko droppings are small and dry and should be removed once they are notices. They do not produce urine, so their homes do not need to be cleaned as often as other small animals. Although it is a good idea to empty and disinfect their homes regularly: around once a month.
Leopard Geckos only eat insects so they are easy to feed. However try to give them a varied diet of crickets, small locusts, meal worms and wax worms, however wax worms should be given in moderation. All insects should be in a good condition and fed well in advance of being given to your gecko. Once a week dust the insects with a good quality vitamin supplement. Feed in the evenings when your gecko is most active. Mealworms should be placed in a dish to stop them from escaping. Providing a small bowl of calcium powder can also be beneficial to your gecko. Adults should be fed every two to three days and juveniles every other day. Make sure not to put new food in the vivarium when there is still some left from the previous feeding. Fresh water should always be available.
With millions of reptiles being kept as pets here in the UK they are rapidly becoming one of the nation’s most loved types of pet. Whilst they may not be the cuddliest of animals, reptiles and particularly lizards provide joy to millions. With so many types of lizard available however, choosing one can be difficult, which is why we’re presenting the 5 most popular pet lizards
There are a wide variety of different geckos available although the distinctive colouration and pattern of the leopard gecko make it a popular pet. Geckos are relatively small meaning that a decent size terrarium can typically house a pair. Their easygoing nature makes them fun to handle and their diet should be made up of insects. As nocturnal animals, geckos are pretty inactive during the day, which can mean you pets are most active when you have gone to bed.
The Blue Tongued Skink
The blue tongued skink is certainly an interesting looking beast and like the bearded dragon can grow to the fairly large size of 60cm or more. These skinks are quite docile animals, like the bearded dragon, meaning that regular handling is possible. Blue tongued skins can live for 20 years so buying one is certainly a lengthy investment of time and money.
The Bearded Dragon
Much less scary than the name implies, the Bearded Dragon is still one of the most popular pet lizards available. The Bearded Dragon can grow to around 60 cm and as such you will need a fairly large terrarium when housing one. The bearded dragon can however be expensive to keep and because of its mixed, omnivore diet (both insects and vegetables), can be troublesome to look after for more inexperienced reptile owner.
The Green Iguana
There are numerous types of iguana that make good pets, with the green iguana arguably the most popular. Iguanas can grow to considerable lengths, so it is important to have a terrarium that will hold them comfortably. Green Iguanas are herbivores and eat their greens, taking the hassle of raising live feed away from the owner.
These anoles are relatively small at around 15cm; they should however be kept in groups with a solitary male and 2 or 3 accompanying females, meaning that your terrarium size should be similar to that for housing 2 geckos. Anoles are not the keenest of lizards to be handled and one of the more low maintenance options on the list.
These 5 lizards are just some of the popular varieties available on the market. If you are interested in keeping a lizard remember that our staff offers advice and guidance on a range of reptile related issues.
Whether you are taking your dog to the vets or taking a road trip to a holiday destination somewhere in the UK, making sure that you are prepared to travel with your dog is vital. Naturally taking your dog with you to fun and interesting places as the weather improves is a priority for many dog owners but this summer, what can you do to make your dogs travelling as enjoyable as possible?
If it is your dog’s first time being in the car it is important to get them used to it. This can be performed by getting your dog into the car and leaving it stationary with the doors and boot open. You may want to start the engine so that they can get used to the noise and sensation. During this time give your dog praise, treat it and get it to relax in the car so that it associates the vehicle as a calm and enjoyable place to be. End on your dog getting used to the vehicle before you head off anywhere. With your dog starting to accept your car you can then take it on a short journey before heading off on a full road trip up country.
Just like it is important for humans to be secure when they travel it is also important that you secure your dog in the car just in case there is an accident. In fact in some countries it is actually a legal requirement to secure your dog as in an accident they can become a dangerous projectile just like any other object in the car.
Fortunately there are a number of options if you want to secure your dog during car journeys, you may want to consider dog seatbelts and harnesses which are ideal for small to medium size dogs. For larger dogs and for larger cars something like a dog crate is ideal and can be placed in the boot. Finally if you want to ensure your dog is given a little freedom in the boot of your car you can fit a dog guard which can be bought for a remarkable number of car makes and models.
Packing to ensure your dog has everything it needs so it is advisable to pack your dog’s food, bedding and bowls for wherever you are going. You may even want to take some toys, or treats for the journey. Naturally you will need your dog’s lead and collar and use them every time you let you dog out at motorway services.
Even if the window is open it is important if that you take a break from driving and allow your dog to stretch its legs at regularly intervals. You should also take plenty of water with you and ensure that each time you stop your dog has a drink. When stopping at services you should never leave your dog alone in the car, particularly if it’s hot.
By taking your time on journeys, having the right accessories so that your dog is safe during the journey and by making frequent stops it is possible to have great fun with your dog on the road, meaning you can take it with you on family holidays and days out.
The main complaint from cat owners for years has been the bad smell of the litter tray. The amount of ammonia found in cat urine has been a constant issue as it leaves unhealthy toxins in the air and a harsh smell.
But not for much longer, a new product is hitting the UK market with full force.
Catit Magic Blue absorbs and retains up to 80% of ammonia, which is great for purifying the air in and around the litter tray, whilst reducing the foul odours and the risk of ammonia affecting those around you.
The Magic Blue cartridge is a reusable plastic holder that fits inside your litter tray. The cartridge comes with a cat proof lock and comes with a handy docking station.
The pads are non-toxic, compact and light weight. Just two pads will last an entire month in a magic blue cartridge. Each magic blue filter pad is sealed in a protective foil pouch for optimal performance.
Undoubtedly pet snakes aren’t for everyone, but for some people snakes are fascinating animals. Snake keepers actually stand by the fact that snakes become friendly and tame, particularly when they are handled regularly. But if you are planning of getting a pet snake, it is important to considering the following.
Firstly and probably most importantly you need to understand that owning a snake is a long term investment. Many species of snake can live up to 20 years. It is also important to understand that snakes can fit through tiny holes, so an escape-proof tank is essential.
So if you have understood these considerations and feel a snake is right for you, what species should you be considering?
If you are ready to start your snake keeping journey, Seapets can not only supply pet snakes but we also have arrange of great starter sets Komodo Advanced Adult Corn Snake Starter Kit. You can also find a full range of reptile terrariums and accessories on the Seapets website.