How do I spot dental problems?

• One of the first symptoms to notice is bad breath or halitosis. This is caused by bacteria on the teeth, resulting in a foul smell.
• If your pet starts to eat differently, perhaps being more hesitant at meal times then this could be a sign that they are having problems with their teeth.
• If your pet starts to chatter their teeth, or even drooling (especially in dogs) this again could be an indicator of dental hygiene problems.
• By inspecting your pet’s mouth you may be able to spot the build up of brown tartar on the teeth or even broken teeth and inflamed gums. These can all cause bad breath but can lead to more serious periodontal disease and infections.

If you are worried that your pet is having problems with its teeth it is important to take it to the vet. The vet will be able to perform a thorough mouth inspection and be able to identify any major problems such as periodontal disease, hyperplasia, cavities or broken teeth.

What can I do to help my pet?

• You can help your pet by cleaning their teeth for them, using specialist toothpaste and brushes. Just like in humans this will help to reduce tartar build up whilst removing pieces of food that cause problems.
• You can also help your pet out by providing them with toys that help clean and condition their teeth. The toys are typically soft and pliable, allowing the pet to chew on them without hurting their teeth but to also massage the gums and remove tartar.
• There is also the option of feeding you pets dental treats and foods which give them something fun to chew on but simultaneously help to improve the health of their gums.

If you are interested in dental hygiene products for your pets you may want to consider a dog dental kit, a toy such as the Dogit Gumi Dental Toy Chew or treats such as Dental Easy Treats for cats. Alternatively just search our website for dental products or get in touch and we’ll be happy to help you find the perfect product to help keep your pet’s teeth and gums healthy.

How big are chinchillas?

Chinchillas grow to between 25cm and 35cm (10-14 inches) although their tail can be another 12cm (5-6inches). Subsequently they need enough space within their cage to ensure they have the room to exercise and run around.

What temperament do chinchillas have?

Whilst individual animals have their own personalities it is generally agreed that chinchillas are fairly tame. This is especially true if you handle them from a young age and treat them gently; if this is done it is possible to build a strong bond with your chinchilla, allowing you to enjoy cuddles.

Chinchillas are also highly active animals and enjoy playing and being let out of their cage for exercise so it is important that you have the time to indulge their playful nature. They can be kept as a single animal or as a same sex pair, as long as that pair are introduced at a young age.

What is it like keeping a chinchilla?

Like many rodent pets chinchillas are nocturnal so become most active at night. That said, some animals may be predominantly active at dawn and dusk, which can be perfect for some owners. As they spend much of the day sleeping it is important to place their home somewhere quiet and peaceful.

As mentioned previously, chinchillas are active and sticklers for routine meaning that their feeding and play schedule should be regular and reliable as they can become stressed by changes and uncertainty.

Where will my chinchilla live?

Chinchilla cages are considerably larger than other rodent cages. They also have multiple levels and will typically incorporate ramps, ledges and places to perch. The reason that they have to be large is because of the chinchilla’s active behaviour. In terms of positioning the cage it should be placed in a cool area, as mountain creatures chinchillas have a thick coast and cannot sweat so a cool place helps to prevent overheating. See the range of chinchilla cages.

What will my chinchilla eat?

Chinchillas in their natural habitat feed on desert grasses and as such a major component of their diet is good quality grass and hay. You may also want to consider pellets and treats such as seeds and raisins although these should only be given in moderation. Chinchillas eat and drink little and often and can struggle to digest some fatty or high protein foods, which is why roughage is so important. See the Seapets range of specialist chinchilla foods.

 What accessories will my chinchilla need?

With such dense and thick fur chinchillas need to have ready access to a dust bath. You will also want to consider toys like this chinchilla toy ball, so that your pet can remain active and can play happily. Your chinchilla will also need materials on which they can gnaw and hence keep their teeth at a reasonable size.

Chinchillas can be extremely rewarding pets and given enough love and attention can build a strong, affectionate bond with owners. If you are interested in keeping a chinchilla or want to explore the types of products we have for chinchillas, please visit the small animals section of the website or get in touch on 0845 230 4777.

Take a Trial Run

If it is your dog’s first time being in the car it is important to get them used to it. This can be performed by getting your dog into the car and leaving it stationary with the doors and boot open. You may want to start the engine so that they can get used to the noise and sensation. During this time give your dog praise, treat it and get it to relax in the car so that it associates the vehicle as a calm and enjoyable place to be. End on your dog getting used to the vehicle before you head off anywhere. With your dog starting to accept your car you can then take it on a short journey before heading off on a full road trip up country.

Securing Your Dog

Just like it is important for humans to be secure when they travel it is also important that you secure your dog in the car just in case there is an accident. In fact in some countries it is actually a legal requirement to secure your dog as in an accident they can become a dangerous projectile just like any other object in the car.

Fortunately there are a number of options if you want to secure your dog during car journeys, you may want to consider dog seatbelts and harnesses which are ideal for small to medium size dogs. For larger dogs and for larger cars something like a dog crate is ideal and can be placed in the boot. Finally if you want to ensure your dog is given a little freedom in the boot of your car you can fit a dog guard which can be bought for a remarkable number of car makes and models.

What to Take with You

Packing to ensure your dog has everything it needs so it is advisable to pack your dog’s food, bedding and bowls for wherever you are going. You may even want to take some toys, or treats for the journey. Naturally you will need your dog’s lead and collar and use them every time you let you dog out at motorway services.

Taking a Break

Even if the window is open it is important if that you take a break from driving and allow your dog to stretch its legs at regularly intervals. You should also take plenty of water with you and ensure that each time you stop your dog has a drink. When stopping at services you should never leave your dog alone in the car, particularly if it’s hot.

By taking your time on journeys, having the right accessories so that your dog is safe during the journey and by making frequent stops it is possible to have great fun with your dog on the road, meaning you can take it with you on family holidays and days out.

The Baby BiOrb

This is the smallest of the BiOrb aquariums and also the most affordable. With capacity of 15L it is perfect for beginners and is suitable for small numbers of coldwater fish. This BiOrb is right for you if you are just starting off, or want to add an attractive feature to your home. Baby BiOrbs are available in silver and black and there are a host of stands and accessories available. See the Baby BiOrb range.

The BiOrb 30

At 30 litres the BiOrb 30 is for those that are little more serious about their hobby. This BiOrb, with the addition of a filter, halogen light and heater is ideal for tropical fish although equally suits coldwater species. Its filtration system is simple to use and like the Baby BiOrb it has the same eye catching bubble design. See the BiOrb 30 range.

The BiOrb 60

This is one of the larger aquariums manufactured by Reef One and as such is perfect for those that want to create a focal point for their home or office or want to keep relatively advanced or large fish. As it is a little larger, the BiOrb 60 offers a range of choices when it comes to keeping fish. For example you may want to keep a community of tropical fish containing different species or with the marine setup you could even create a saltwater habitat. Maintenance is also easy and requires just a change of the filter and 1/3^rd of the water every month.  See the BiOrb 60 range.

BiOrb Life

The BiOrb Life aquariums are available in 2 main styles, the square and portrait. Both are beautifully styled and available in a range of colours including Chilli Red, Piano Black and Ice White. The BiOrb Life Square is available in the 30L size whilst the Portrait comes in both 45 and 60L sizes. Like all BiOrbs maintenance of the BiOrb Life aquariums is simple and stress free and whilst they are sold as coldwater setups, they can easily be converted to tropical with the addition of a heater. See the BiOrb Life range.

The BiUbe

The BiUbe is ideal for those that like to create unique environments for their fish and enjoy aquascaping. Despite its small shape and profile (allowing it to fit into places that other fish tanks may struggle) the BiUbe is deceptively large and can hold 35 litres. It can be used either for tropical or coldwater fish and is available with a host of lighting and heating accessories. See the BiUbe range.

Accessories and Stands

BiOrb aquariums are all available with a host of different proprietary accessories. As mentioned previously there is a choice of heaters, pumps and lights as well as readily available replacement filters and media to make maintenance as easy as possible. To make your BiOrb shine there is a huge selection of plants and ornaments you can use to change your fish’s underwater world and even swappable tops to let your personalise your aquarium. To ensure you make the most of your BiOrb aquarium as a design feature, there are also stands to suit all sizes and shapes of BiOrb. See the BiOrb Accessories.

BiOrb aquariums are ideals for those that want the joy of keeping fish but want easy maintenance and a style statement for their home or office. If you have any more questions about whether a BiOrb is right for you, why not pop into one of our stores or get in touch?

There are two main classifications of cichlids, those from Lake Malawi  and those from Lake Tanganyika, both of which are explored below.

Lake Malawi Cichlids

Cichlids from Lake Malawi are highly popular as they can be visually striking and grow to relatively large sizes. It is generally agreed that there are more sub-species of Malawi cichlids than those in Lake Tanganyika, despite Lake Malawi’s smaller size. This greater diversification however takes place in the same subfamily line, meaning that whilst there is variety in appearance, there is less diversity in behavioural and habitual traits for the different subspecies.

The result of this is that Lake Malawi cichlids can be highly territorial and aggressive.  In the wild, resources are limited causing cichlids to become extremely competitive for the best spots within their rocky habitat. Unfortunately, within a home tank the limited space can result in this territoriality becoming a problem.

Lake Tanganyika Cichlids

The situation in Lake Tanganyika is slightly different from that in Malawi because diversification is from multiple lineages. This means that the different species of cichlid from Tanganyika each have a niche, leading to less competition and subsequently less aggression.

These niches are frequently described as biotypes and can range from phytoplankton pickers to scale rippers and even sand sifters. It is by carefully selecting cichlids along the lines of behaviour that it is possible to build a community in a large enough tank, although this should only really be done after seeking the advice of an expert.

What if I want to create a community?

Choose young fish

Most fish keepers advise that cichlids be kept in a single species set up but even as a single species aggression can cause problems. It has been suggested that the best way to create a community of cichlids is to purchase numerous juvenile fish simultaneously. This approach ensures that the fish have time to get used to their tank mates as they grows, allowing them to sort a balance of power and territory over time.

This option is arguably the best way to create a harmonious community of cichlids although it is worth bearing in mind that juvenile cichlids are not always the brightest and most aesthetically pleasing fish, as typically it is the adults which are brighter and more colourful.

Choose different fish

Another tip for picking cichlids is to choose single fish from a different genus or if you are going to have many fish from the same genus, pick ones that are different colours. Ultimately cichlids are most aggressive towards similar fish as these pose the greatest threat and competition. Subsequently as an owner it worth considering different shapes, sizes and colours of cichlid if trying to achieve a community as these will not necessarily be seen as direct competition.

Follow the size of mouth rule

Despite their aggressive and territorial nature there are some other species of fish that can cohabitate with cichlids. These include Synodontis catfish, labeo sharks and botia loaches. This will largely depend upon the individual levels of aggression for each of your cichlids and also to ensure that you never add a fish that is smaller than the mouth of your largest fish.

Keeping cichlids can be extremely rewarding, particularly when you have established a balance of personalities within the tank and have a healthy collection of full size fish. To achieve this, care needs to be taken from the outset when choosing your fish and an understanding of how some fish may upset this balance needs to be gained. If you are interested in keeping Lake Malawi or Tanganyika cichlids why not pop into one of our stores or find us on Facebook to discuss keeping a single species aquarium?

As a specialist breed of goldfish, pearlscales are less hardy than common goldfish making them more of a challenge to keep. In particular, pearlscale goldfish are often cited as being susceptible to overfeeding, sensitive to pH changes and also vulnerable in excessively cold water. As a result, keeping this type of goldfish requires a little extra care.

Pearlscale goldfish can be a variety of colours including blues, blacks, reds and also whites. The body shape, which resembles an egg, means that the internal organs of this type of fish are compact, one of the reasons why overfeeding this species of goldfish can be a problem. With the correct level of care, pearlscale goldfish can grow to the relatively larger size of 20cm (around 8 inches).

In terms of feeding, pearlscales are omnivorous and subsequently can be fed a variety of different foods. Pellet and flakes of fish food are suitable although many keepers advise that such dry foods should be soaked first to avoid compaction. Some fish keepers also enjoy feeding their pearlscales occasional vegetables and live foods, particularly shelled peas which can help to prevent constipation as well as bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia.

Like all goldfish, pearlscales are relatively messy and produce a lot of waste meaning that you have to change the water fairly frequently to maintain a healthy habitat. In terms of water temperatures, severe fluctuations should be avoided and the lowest temperatures shouldn’t go below 12⁰C (55⁰F). Similarly, extremes of alkalinity and acidity should also be avoided; a stable pH of between 7.2 and 7.6 should be maintained.

If adding your pearlscale goldfish to a community tank it can be advisable to avoid placing them with the faster goldfish breeds such as Comets or Shubunkins as the difference in speed can cause problems in the long term. If you want to keep other types of goldfish with your pearlscales, bubble-eyes and butterfly-tails both make suitable tank mates.

Tips for Choosing a Pearlscale

• When looking to buy pearlscale goldfish you should always choose individuals that are active in the tank and also maintain a healthy horizontal balance.
• The body should be short, round and compact, breeders aim for fish that have a body depth of two thirds of the body length.
• A fish of around 5.5cm (2.25 inches) is suitable.
• Look for bright, healthy colouration and also fully developed dome-shaped pearls all over the fish.
• Fins should be well formed and complete with a slightly rounded appearance.

If you are considering keeping pearlscale goldfish or want to keep another type of fish why not get in touch with us today. We have experts that can help you choose and also set you up with all the equipment and accessories you need to keep a happy, healthy goldfish population.

There are many budding fish keepers that simply opt for the most colourful fish possible when creating their first community. Despite the importance of aesthetics though it is important to make sure your fish can live at the same water temperature, are suited to similar habitats and also that they will not eat or attack each other.

As a first timer or beginner the best advice is to opt for fish that are hardy and can adapt to environmental changes which may result from your mistakes. Additionally, it is advisable to buy fish that aren’t too expensive in the early stages of your fish keeping as it is likely that some will die as you attempt to keep the water quality stable and acquire the skills to keep your fish healthy. Remember that a larger fish tank will be more forgiving than a smaller one when you first start out due to the larger volume of water.

When selecting fish for your tank it is advisable to choose fish that are peaceful rather than aggressive. Aggressive species should really be left to more experienced handlers as they can cause the death of other fish due to biting, infection of wounds and stress. It is also worth bearing in mind that even relatively placid fish can exhibit behaviours such as fin-nipping so if you are choosing fish with delicate fins, it is wise to be extra careful about the other fish in your tank.

5 Key Considerations for Choosing Your Fish

• Size of Your Fish Tank
  The size of aquarium you choose will determine how many and also the types of fish you can choose. For instance fish that are sensitive to poor water conditions will typically do better in a larger, less crowded tank.

• Colours and Patterns
  Naturally you want a good selection of fish that vary in colours, size and pattern rather than a collection of drab colours. Your aquarium is like an evolving piece of art so choosing colours can be tricky; a good tip is to buy your fish one species at a time to balance how they look when you add them to the fish tank.

• Maintaining you Fish Tank
  Maintenance is a major consideration and as mentioned previously it is easier to maintain larger tanks. However, if you are clever about which fish you choose, for example buying scavengers of bottom feeding fish you can create an environment that is self cleaning to an extent.

• Predation
  Most fish keepers agree that when choosing fish it is advisable to match them by their mouth size i.e. no fish in your tank should have a mouth large enough to swallow another. You should also consider strictly herbivorous fish within your aquarium.

5 Good Community Fish

The following fish can make good community fish and are ideal for beginners:

Golden Barbs – A very harder and peaceful fish of the Barb species

Glowlight Tetra – Easier to start a new tank with than the Neon Tetra.

Silvertip Tetra – Copper colour with white fin tips, very tolerant.

Swordtails – An attractive and hardy livebearer

Corydorus Catfish – Tough clean-up crew.

Your choice of fish community is of course wholly down to personal preference and even if you do select a fish that is of a placid species there is a chance that an individual may still be aggressive. If you do want further information on the types of fish that can be kept together or would like to find out more about fish keeping why not pop into one of our stores or speak to us on our Facebook page.

In fact the pond environment is actually fairly stable at this time of year. Plants are not growing at a fast rate and fish are typically in a state of hibernation. However whilst the pond may be stable, you cannot forget about it, importantly, you must prevent it from freezing over as a frozen pond will lead to the build of carbon dioxide and other gases in the water, which is harmful for both fish and plants.

Preventing your pond from freezing over completely

It is important to point out that a frozen pond isn’t a problem in itself, ice only becomes a problem when it covers the entire water surface leading to a build up of gasses and in concrete ponds the formation of cracks due to expansion. Fortunately there are a number of ways to ensure your pond is not frozen when the mercury plummets. Inflatables that sit on the surface are a good idea as these can expand and contract with the ice and prevent it from freezing over completely.

You may also want to consider pond heaters. Pond heaters will keep an area of the pond free from ice so that gas exchanges can take place and the habitat below the water line remains healthy. If you are interested in utilising a pond heater Seapets can provide three different heaters suitable for different sizes and depths of ponds. You can see the full range of pond heaters here.

What If my pond has already frozen over?

If your pond is completely frozen over it is important to act quickly. Do not be tempted to go at the ice with a hammer and chisel though. The stress caused by the loud noises and shocks can actually kill fish. A better method is to use boiling water placed in a bag or container to melt the ice.

Should I clear snow from my pond?

Even with an ice-free area within your pond it is important to clear snow that may be sitting on the ice. This snow prevents light from entering the pond which is important for plants so that they can continue to produce oxygen.

Ultimately keeping a pond during the winter is about being prepared for the winter weather and realising that even though it may seem lifeless during the winter there is still a lot going on under the surface. Your main priority throughout the winter months and particularly during severely cold snaps is to ensure that ice is not allowed to form across the entire surface of the pond.

Lifespan

Some species of turtles can live for up to 50 years so before you decide to keep turtles as pets it is important to understand that they will require a significant commitment and are likely to be part of your family for a considerable amount of time. For the purposes of this blog, we’ll be looking at aquatic turtles for keeping indoors, rather than terrestrial turtles and pond turtles.

Housing

Aquatic turtles will normally require a sizeable tank, normally around 20-30 gallons, particularly if you are keeping multiple specimens. It should have a relatively large base rather than being too deep as this will allow for around 6 inches of water in the tank and also an elevated basking area.  Ultimately you will need to ensure that your tank isn’t overcrowded and that you can create a suitable habitat.

Basking Areas

As semi-aquatic animals most turtles will require a basking area on which they can dry themselves. This can be achieved by placing rocks or branches within the tank or alternatively to use a Turtle Dock, a floating basking area with a ramp that can rise and fall with the water level.

Filtration

It is also important that the water in your tank is filtered to maintain a healthy habitat. Turtles will produce large amounts of waste meaning that an effective filter and regular water changes will be required. It is advisable to have a specialist high volume filter although you may also want to consider an all in one solution like the Exo Terra Turtle Cliff and Filter which combines a basking area with a filter, saving space within your tank.

Lighting & Heating

As with all reptiles the lighting in your tank is highly important. Turtles love to bathe in the light to regulate their temperatures and also to form their shells. Remember your lamps will have to provide sufficient UV and UVB levels for vitamin D, which is achievable with fluorescent bulbs. It is also important to keep the water temperature at suitable levels (between 25⁰C-27⁰C) and as such it can be worth buying a water heater and thermostat, although it is also possible to use heating lamps (although these can encourage algae growth).

Food

Turtles are omnivorous and will eat a variety of vegetables and protein; pellets will form a large constituent of their diet.  You may want to consider a staple pellet based food such as Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle Food and supplemental foods such as the Tetra Repto Delica Snack, which can be used to provide additional vitamins. Variety is important so you may also want to consider fresh vegetables (carrot, romaine lettuce or kale) and even live prey such as mealworms and crickets.

Further Information

Naturally this blog post hasn’t been able to cover all aspects of turtle keeping but has hoped to point out some of the key considerations when keeping pet turtles. If you would like further information Aquatic Turtles by David T. Kirkpatrick is advised or alternatively why not get in touch with us and we will strive to answer any specific questions.

Sand

Many species of tropical fish originate from sandy environments such as freshwater lakes or ocean bottoms and as such using sand as a substrate is an effective way to replicate their natural habitat. There are species of fish that exhibit burrowing behaviour (such as gobies) and for these types of fish sand can be an excellent choice. Fish with other behaviours such as sifting in the mouth and bottom feeding can also benefit from a softer substrate such as sand.

The downsides of sand include that because it packs tighter than gravel then pockets of dead space can easily form, meaning that such pockets have no circulation which can harm both fish and plants. You can avoid these pockets however by not laying your sand layer too thickly, by stirring your sand regularly or by introducing creatures such as snails which will circulate the sand.

Sand is also unsuitable for aquariums using an under gravel filtration system as it can cause these to block and in most cases, when cleaning your aquarium lighter sand particles can be sucked up during siphoning. Finally, it can be worth avoiding sand if your aquarium is acrylic, as the particles can scratch the surface, particularly during scrubbing.

Gravel

Gravel is probably the most commonly used and easily available types of aquarium substrate and as a result is highly popular. Gravel is also affordable and as gravels can be purchased in a wide range of colours, can give fish keepers a great stylistic choice. Gravel also comes in a range of particle sizes for additional customisation.

The size of the particles is one of the most important factors when choosing gravel. Particles that are too large can lead to the build up of waste between gaps, which can eventually change the biology of the tank; large, sharp particles can also harm the delicate skin of some fish.

Gravel is ideal if you have live aquarium plants as it provides their roots with safe and secure anchorage.  Gravel can also be easier to handle if you are either cleaning or changing your tank setup.

Substrates for Plants

If cultivating plants is a priority in your aquarium it could be worth considering a soil substrate such as Aqua Gro Nutrasoil. These forms of pellet substrate are designed to not only give plants a solid anchorage but to also release nutrients over time that plants require to flourish. In addition, the soft, soil like pellets also help to lower the pH level within a tank and are ideal for bottom dwellers and invertebrates such as shrimp. Aqua Gro Nutrasoil is available in 2 colours, Nutrasoil Black and Nutrasoil Brown.

Sand and gravel both have pros and cons and there are also other choices such as soils and clays. Ultimately the choice of substrate is wholly dependent upon your aquarium set up, including the types of plants or fish which you keep. If you are having trouble choosing between the two, why not pop into your local Seapets store or give us a call for further guidance?